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Hard Maple

January 25th, 2009

American ‘hard’ Maple is imported in FAS grade in imperial thicknesses of sawn 1″, 1 ¼”, 1 ½”, 2″, 2 ½”, 3″ & 4″ kiln dried.
 
It is mainly used for interior furniture and joinery. Imported packs normally contain random widths 4″ to about 9″ and are in predominantly even lengths i.e. 8′, 10′, 12′ as this is the standard method of American hardwood production. Occasionally we are able to obtain other lengths up to 14′ long.
 
The grade we stock is predominantly sapwood on one face and on part of the reverse. This ‘white’ colouring is favoured by joinery & furniture makers.
 

Working Properties

  Machines well with care
  Pre-boring is recommended for nailing and screwing
  Glues satisfactorily
  Can be stained and polished to an excellent finish
  Turns well
  Dries slowly with large shrinkage
  Susceptable to movement in performance

 

Physical Properties

  Heavy and hard with good strength properties
  High resistance to abrasion and wear
  Good steam bending properties

 

Durability

  Slightly/non -resistant to heartwood decay
  Sapwood liable to attack by furniture beetle
  Heartwood is resistant to preservative treatment but Sapwood is permeable

 

Main Uses

  Flooring
  Furniture
  Panelling
  Kitchen cabinets
  Worktops and tabletops
  Interior joinery
  Stairs
  Handrails
  Mouldings
  Doors

Beech

January 25th, 2009

 
Unsteamed prime-grade German Beech is imported logsawn (waney-edge), although we can square-edge boards if preferred.
 
Unsteamed is usually paler and stocked as kiln dried. We have found in recent years less demand for the deliberately ’steamed’ pink Beech, but it can be offered ‘to order’.
 
Standard sawn thicknesses - 26mm, 32mm, 38mm, 50mm, 63mm, 80mm & 100mm. Being logsawn, widths will vary considerably, but Beech is known to be more stable in narrow widths. Lengths range from 2m to 4m approximately.
 

Working Properties

  Machines well
  Good for nailing/screwing, but should be pre-bored
  Care should be taken when gluing
  Wears well and holds stains and polishes well
  Bends readily when steamed
  The wood dries fairly rapidly but with a strong tendency to warp, split and surface check
  Subject to a large shrinkage and moderate movement in performance

 

Physical Properties

  Good overall strength
  Excellent shock resistance
  Good resistance to abrasive wear

 

Durability

  Slightly/non-resistant to heartwood decay
  Liable to attack by the common furniture beetle and longhorn beetle
  Permeable for preservation.

 

Main Uses

  Furniture
  Doors
  Flooring
  Panelling
  Internal joinery
  Brush handles
  Turning
  Food storage/containers

American Black Walnut

January 25th, 2009

American ‘black’ Walnut is usually stocked in logsawn boards (which we saw to size if required) as this makes it easier for the furniture-maker to see and eliminate sapwood. Favoured because it is easy to work and gives a very attractive ‘quality’ appearance. Will have some knots because it is not a ‘tall’ tree. Kiln dried stocks of 26mm, 35mm, 40mm, 52mm, 63mm, 76mm with lengths generally 2m - 3 m.
 

Working Properties

  Easy to machine
  Good for nailing, screwing and gluing
  Takes paint and stain very well and can be polished to an exceptional finish
  Dries slowly, care needs to be taken to avoid kilning degrade
  Good stability

 

Physical Properties

  Hard timber with medium density
  Moderate bending and crushing properties
  Low stiffness
  Good steam bending properties

 

Durability

  Very durable, even under conditions favourable for decay
  Very resistant to heartwood decay
  Sapwood liable to attack by powder post beetles

 

Main Uses

  Light construction
  Furniture
  Cabinet making
  Architectural interiors
  High class joinery
  Doors
  Flooring
  Panelling

American White Ash

January 25th, 2009

American ‘white’ Ash is mainly used for interior furniture and joinery, particularly where bending-strength is required. The colour of Ash boards will vary from a white appearance through to brown.
 
American Ash is imported in FAS grade in imperial thicknesses of sawn 1″, 1 ¼”, 1 ½”, 2″, 2 ½”, 3″ & 4″. Kiln dried imported packs normally contain random widths from 4″ to about 9″ and are in predominantly even lengths i.e. 8′, 10′, 12′ as this is the standard method of American hardwood production. Occasionally we are able to obtain other lengths up to 14′ long and also premium widths.
 
Please note; American grading rules allow width tolerances in the sawn sizes, e.g. 7″ width stock may vary from 6 5/8″ to 7 ½” yet still be charged as 7″. Therefore, we encourage customers to advise us of the minimum ‘planed finish’ width they want so that our tally staff can select accordingly.
 
We also stock Ash ‘tapered Pellets’ for covering screwheads when countersunk.
 

Working Properties

  Machines well
  Good for nailing, screwing and gluing
  Stains and polishes well
  Dries fairly easily with minimal degrade
  Little movement in peformance

 

Physical Properties

  Good overall strength
  Excellent shock resistance
  Good for steam bending

 

Durability

  Non-resistant to heartwood decay
  Sapwood is liable to powder post
  Sapwood is liable to common furniture beetle attack
  Heartwood is moderately resistant to preservative treatment
  Sapwood is permeable

 

Main Uses

  Furniture
  Flooring
  Doors
  Architectural interiors
  High class joinery and moulding
  Kitchen cabinets
  Panelling
  Tool Handles
  Sports Goods
  Turning

American White Oak

January 25th, 2009

American White Oak (Quercus Alba) is distinct from Western Europe Oak (Quercus Robur & Petraea). It is generally produced from a smaller log and is less durable than the European variety. However it is very popular for interior joinery, furniture and kitchens. Thinner boards are price competitive but this may change for boards over 50mm thick. Grade mainly FAS but also #1cmn & btr in 1″ thick is often used by volume furniture producers.
 
Widths 4″- 9″, but 10″ & wider premium price bundles are also stocked. Lengths; mainly 8′, 10′, 12′ and some 14′.
 

Working Properties

  Machines well
  Good for nailing and screwing, although pre-boring is advisable (also reacts with Iron)
  Gluing results are variable
  Stains and polishes well
  Dries slowly and care is needed to avoid checking
  Can be susceptible to movement in performance

 

Physical Properties

  Heavy and hard
  Medium bending and crushing strength properties, but very good in steam bending
  Southern White Oak is heavier and harder

 

Durability

  Heartwood is resistant to decay and extremley resistant to preservative treatment
  Sapwood is moderately resistant to preservative treatment

 

Main Uses

  Construction
  Furniture
  Flooring
  Architectural Joinery
  Exterior Joinery
  Mouldings
  doors
  Kitchen cabinets
  Panelling
  Railway sleepers
  Timber bridges
  Barrel staves
  Coffins and caskets

Southern Yellow Pine

January 25th, 2009

Southern Pine grows in a vast band across the Southern United States, from East Texas to Virginia. In fact, it’s a rare county that doesn’t contain a representative of one of the four main species: shortleaf, longleaf, loblolly or slash. Lumber from all four is marketed as Southern Pine (or Southern Yellow Pine) and graded in accordance with the grading rules of the Southern Pine Inspection Bureau (SPIB), approved by the American Lumber Standard Committee.

Market opportunities for Southern Pine lumber exist in residential, nonresidential and industrial applications. Major market areas are throughout the United States, as well as export markets in China, Europe, Japan, Mexico, and the Caribbean Basin.

The inherent characteristics that make Southern Pine such a desirable species for so many applications are:

  • HIGH STRENGTH - Design values assigned for Southern Pine are among the highest for all softwoods. 
  • SEASONING - Grademarked Southern Pine dimension lumber (2″ and less in thickness) must be dried to a maximum moisture content of 19%. This minimizes the shrinkage associated with “green lumber.” 
  • NAIL HOLDING - The ability of Southern Pine to hold fasteners is among the highest of the softwoods. Drying enhances nail holding and reduces the tendency for “nail pop” associated with drywall construction. 
  • DURABILITY - Southern Pine is highly resistant to wear; therefore, it is suitable for flooring, decks, patios, marinas, boardwalks and other high-traffic applications. 
  • TREATABILITY - Southern Pine is also one of the easiest softwoods to pressure-treat with preservatives. As a result, treated Southern Pine is one of the largest segments of the Southern Pine market. 
  • QUALITY - SPC members produce Southern Pine lumber to the highest quality standards, as contained in the SPIB grading rules. You can build on that! 

Measuring stairs

January 23rd, 2009

RISE
For a straight staircase measure your rise measurement first, this is the distance from the finished floor level where the staircase starts to the finished floor level on the upper floor where the staircase is going to. If your floors are slightly out of level the make sure you get your rise from the points where the staircase is going to sit.

GOING
Once you have your rise you can work out the going distance (Dimension G)for the stairs this is the distance the staircase will project along the floor, Check the Regs to see the correct going to suit your rise height when trying to achieve a 42 degree pitch.

WIDTH
If you are measuring a staircase for between walls make sure you measure the narrowest point and allow a clearance, this is OK if the staircase is assembled and the staircase can slide into place without having to be turned in the hole (between the walls) and is also OK if the staircase is ordered flatpack for assembly in situ between the walls, but if your staircase is going to need turning in between the walls you need to allow more clearance normally 75mm is OK but this needs checking before ordering, to work this out you need to draw a rectangle to scale (draw a rectangle the proposed width by 244mm which is the typical depth of the stair stringers we use and measure across the furthest points to check you can rotate the staircase)
The width is also important when it comes to your landing room at the top and the bottom as this needs to be equal or more than the width of the staircase.

The width of a standard domestic staircase is 860mm over all the strings, the minimum width we would recommend for a Loft staircase is 600mm over all the strings.

If you are measuring a staircase which is to have handrails to one side and it is quite tight to the well hole you need to think about finger room between the handrail and the side of your stairwell the minimum clearance we recommend is 40mm this would mean you need to allow 55mm clearance on you over all string measurement from the finished well size.

Components and Terminology

January 22nd, 2009

Step

The step is composed of the tread and riser.

  • tread - The part of the stairway that is stepped on. It is constructed to the same specificationFacts About SpecificationIn engineering and manufacturing, the term specification has the following meanings: …

    s (thickness) as any other flooring. The tread “width” is measured from the outer edge of the step to the vertical “riser” between steps.

  • riser - The vertical portion between each tread on the stair. This may be missing for an “open” stair effect.
  • nosing - An edge part of the tread that protrudes over the riser beneath. If it is present, this means that horizontally, the total “run” length of the stairs is not simply the sum of the tread lengths, the treads actually overlap each other slightly
  • starting step or bullnose - Where stairs are open on one or both sides, the first step above the lower floor may be wider than the other steps and rounded. The balusters typically form a semi-circle around the circumference of the rounded portion and the handrail has a horizontal spiral called a “volute” that supports the top of the balusters. Besides the cosmetic appeal, starting steps allow the balusters to form a wider, more stable base for the end of the handrail. Handrails that simply end at a post at the foot of the stairs can be less sturdy, even with a thick post. A double bullnose can be used when both sides of the stairs are open.
  • winders - Winders are steps that are narrower on one side than the other. They are used to change the direction of the stairs without landings. A series of winders form a circular or spiral stairway. When three steps are used to turn a 90° corner, the middle step is called a kite winder due to its similarity to a diamond-shaped kiteKite A kite is a flying tethered man-made object….

    .

  • stringer, stringer board or sometimes just string - The structural member that supports the treads and risers. There are typically two stringers, one on either side of the stairs; though the treads may be supported many other ways. The stringers are sometimes notched so that the risers and treads fit into them. Stringers on open-sided stairs are often open themselves so that the treads are visible from the side. Such stringers are called “cut” stringers. Stringers on a closed side of the stairs are closed, with the support for the treads routed into the stringer.
  • trim - Trim (e.g. quarter-round or baseboardBaseboard Also see hydronics for baseboard heating, as opposed to forced-air….

     trim) is normally applied where walls meet floors and often underneath treads to hide the reveal where the tread and riser meet. Shoe moulding may be used between where the lower floor and the first riser meet. Trimming a starting step is a special challenge as the last riser above the lower floor is rounded. Today, special flexible, plastic trim is available for this purpose, however wooden mouldings are still used and are either cut from a single piece of rounded wood, or bent with laminations Scotia is concave moulding that is underneath the nosing between the riser and the tread above it.

 

The railing system

The balustrade is the complete system of railings and balusters that prevents people from falling over the edge.

  • banister, railing or handrail
  • baluster - A term for the vertical balusters that hold the handrail. Sometimes simply called guards or spindles. Treads often require two balusters. The second baluster is closer to the riser and is taller than the first. The extra height in the second baluster is typically in the middle between decorative elements on the baluster. That way the bottom decorative elements are aligned with the tread and the top elements are aligned with the railing angle. However, this means the first and second balusters are manufactured separately and cannot be interchanged. Balusters without decorative elements can be interchanged.
  • newelNewel  

    A joist, in architecture and engineering, is one of the horizontal supporting members that run from wall to wall, wall to be…

    A newel is the upright post about which the steps of a circular staircase wind….
    - A large baluster or post used to anchor the handrail. Since it is a structural element, it extends below the floor and subfloor to the bottom of the floor joistJoist s and is bolted right to the floor joist. A half-newel may be used where a railing ends in the wall. Visually, it looks like half the newel is embedded in the wall. For open landings, a newel may extend below the landing for a decorative newel drop.

  • baserail or shoerail - For systems where the baluster does not start at the treads, they go to a baserail. This allows for identical balusters, avoiding the second baluster problem.
  • fillet - A decorative filler piece on the floor between balusters on a balcony railing.

Stair designers

January 21st, 2009

It is essential that the stair builder is able to replicate the desired result and should be able to showcase their work through the company’s website or a showroom. A reputable and experienced stair builder can advise customers on what styles of stairs and balustrades will enhance the proposed design or existing design of their house.

Current trends are returning to a simpler and cleaner design with straight sanitised lines. Stairs tend to have square instead of rounded nosings with treads butting up against walls without the use of the tradition wall stringer.

Treatment to the outside of the stair is square cut stringers without any of the traditional decorative work such as tread brackets and scotia moulds. In terms of balustrade, the move has been right away from decorative timber balusters to simple square balusters, usually of a smaller size such as 32mm x 32mm.

Stainless steel has become the ideal balustrade material. This may be in the form of vertical balusters, stainless steel wires with staunchions and in some cases, stainless steel handrail. Toughened glass as a balustrade component, used in conjunction with stainless steel and/or timber, can make up approximately ten percent of balustrade, despite the high costs.

The staircase design

January 20th, 2009

Staircases perform many functions in a home. The staircase allows simple and economical access between floor levels or can make a statement that enhances the architectural style of a home. For example, contemporary glass balustrade designs allow for an openness that is in demand.

The influences at work when managing the spaces in and around the stairwell can be complex. As an example, designing the final layout of a feature staircase can create conflict between spaces in a dwelling.

Each space has a function, it maybe a narrow hallway, a doorway under the staircase or breathing space from the front door. Often a stairbuilder finds them the negotiator seeking a harmonious outcome that benefits all stakeholders and allows each space to function as it was intended.

Entry and exit points of a staircase must be will managed and need to take in account a dwellings heavy line of traffic. Small design adjustments here can significantly decrease the occupant’s travel distance.

While the modern trend is minimalistic in its style using glass, stainless steel, stainless steel wires and simple square timber components, there is nothing new in stair building styles and all these components have been used before.

Therefore, it is important that the style of stair compliments the interior of the home where the stair is located. This will minimise the risk of having a stair or balustrade that is out of kilter with the rest of the house.

Also the modern staircase must be able to marry these materials while considering the structural requirements and the stress and strains the particular staircase may be putting on to an existing or new structure.

It is important that builders, architects, designers and owners are clear on the product that the stair builder is to provide. Fortunately, modern technology provides these customers with a world of information through the internet.

Stairs 2 U - Moravian Road, Kingswood, Bristol BS15 8ND   Tel: 0117 960 2849   Email info@stairs2u.com
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